Millennium Walk : Siena-Rome

Montalcino Fortress

On the 10th Anniversary of this epic journey, these reminiscences of a magical walk bring much pleasure.

Siena's museum and rich works of art had to be missed by our group of walkers, as there was only time to look around Le Duomo and also to hear about the II Palio delle Contrade - the bare back horse race around a packed Piazza de Campo - usually preceded by a historical parade of 700 people in 15th Century costumes who cross the city to the piazza where the Contrade ride to win the Palio, a painted silk flag.

As we left Siena, a church bell rang and the Heavens opened, setting the climate for the walk.

Our route through rolling farmland to Vescovado was rather muddy - we met all terrains and made fun of our plight until the thunder clouds rolled over as we ate our delicious picnic lunch.

Our overnight pit-stop allowed us to consider the enormity of the trek ahead which included a walk along an area of scientific interest where the views and flora and fauna were absolutely stunning, demanding our attention to stop and absorb the vista.

Two experienced walkers had sought permission to go ahead, they added about five walking miles to their day, which ended with a hitchhike, as they were unable to find the road up to Montalcino - rather a worrying episode for our guides.

Montalcino's massive fortress views (1,860ft) were impressive as was its cuisine, that is except for the wild boar, which was less than morish.  Veterans bought the local wine - Brunello di Montalcino - which was also sampled in copious amounts at dinner, amply disguising the local delicacies.

The descent into Pescina from the mountain top fortress took us up and down, up and down, up and down to the famous Benedictine Abbey of Saint Antimo where Mass was taking place.

We watched grapes being harvested as we ate our picnic lunch overlooking the vale in which the Abbey sat.  The wind chilled our extremities as the afternoon start to the walk was welcomed and after crossing wilder country, we came to olive groves and chestnut woods, we then spent two nights in the mountain village of Pescina.

Monte Amiata's (5,702ft) views were breathtaking, as was the climb up to its top: the fittest walkers in cloudless skies reap the best rewards.

As the dappled sunlight shone through the leaves of the trees on the descent there was a feeling of lasting contentment abruptly broken overnight by an earth tremor -terrified does describe the fear I felt.  England beckoned.

Alas, Aquapendete's Cathedral crypt contained precious reliquary from the Holy Land - the reverence in which they were held was comforting.  At this point, conversations became very saintly.

Isola Bisentina at Lago di Bolsena provided a much-welcomed excursion to the island via an alternative mode of transport - the waterbus.  The Island's one inhabitant, a Countess, allowed her secretary to accompany us around the island to teach us about its history.

For now, its secrets remain with me until the children's book is published to raise more funds for The Joint Educational Trust also the beneficiary of this fundraising walk.

Montefiascone is a popular holiday resort and it is an important farming town, dominating Lago di Bolsena, it has many important buildings and monuments and a rich history which we were only able to sample.

Then followed the walk to Viterbo in the hills around the lake.  'Thrown' stones of basalt reminded us the fragility of the topography of this area.  Magnificent views of the lake, calm, still and appearing mirror-like, added to its reputation of being the largest of its kind in Europe.

We visited Etrusco Roman ruins in the hills - III Century BC - which were fascinating:  a town of shops, baths, town square and residences with some frescoes surviving to this date.

During that afternoon we bathed in thermal springs literally bubbling out of the track - blissful relaxation, elixir for aching bodies. 

Our aches and pains dissolved away, prepared us for 'Day Twelve in Viterbo' where we had a free day to squirrel around the treasures of its medieval quarter.  The San Pelligrino quarter epitomised Viterbo's identity - the beautiful Papal Palace and then onto the gardens of Villa Lanti to name just two.

The path was full of very special memories, including 'Romulus and Remus', the six week old puppies we found and named en route, eventually managing to 'home' them.

Another incident where a walker's shorts began to leak soap powder bubbles that ran down his legs - as it rained or should I say poured -caused much frivolity.  Much to his embarrassment he explained that he had not been able to rinse his shorts properly; practicalities proving very difficult as we daily packed and unpacked our kits.

Sutri and La Storta brought us closer to the unavoidable asphalt walk into Rome across the triumphal Flamino Bridge, along the Tiber to St. Peter's.

The champagne toast held in St Peter's Square was all the more poignant as the Year 2000 celebrations, attended by both the Pope and Queen Elizabeth had taken place that weekend.

Our whistle-stop tour of Rome finished with an celebration dinner that was extraordinary and will be remembered forever by the group.